Because the cashmere sweater has strong extensibility, good elasticity, can be close to the human body, has better warmth, comfortable wearing, so it is loved by more and more people, then this is known as the "soft gold" cashmere sweater is how to produce?
Only 10 to 40 grams of cashmere can be collected from a mature goat every year, and it takes 3 to 5 sheep to "devote themselves" to make a cashmere sweater. The wool collected from these goats goes through:
Selecting wool → washing wool → sorting → dyeing → drying → blending wool → carding → spinning → fine yarn → doubling and twisting → winding
Cashmere yarn, the basic material for weaving cashmere sweaters, was thus produced.
Production of cashmere sweater:
Cashmere sweater production process is roughly divided into the following steps:
Cashmere yarn entering factory → raw material inspection → flat machine → piece inspection → cover → hand picking → seam inspection → soaking → shrinkage → ironing → wool selection → light inspection → repair inspection → standard setting → finished product inspection → sample inspection → Packaging → delivery.
After the raw material of cashmere yarn is put into the factory and stored, the testing and laboratory department will extract samples in time to check the calibration line density of yarn count, evenness of strip dry and other items. Only when it meets the requirements can it be put into use.
The linear density number deviation, dry uniformity, moisture recovery rate and color fastness of the target raw material will directly affect the quality of the product. Therefore, the inspection of raw materials, found problems, can be timely revised process, take technical measures to prevent the quality of finished products.
01
Cashmere sweater knitting equipment, cashmere sweater type
Knitting is the main process of cashmere sweater production, its knitting machinery has ordinary flat knitting machine and computer flat knitting machine two kinds. Flat knitting has many advantages, such as the means of increasing or decreasing the number of needles to weave clothes suitable for human body, which can be made up without cutting. It saves raw materials and reduces working procedures, has many pattern changes, and is convenient to change varieties. Therefore, flat knitting is generally used by sweater enterprises. General flat machine equipment is divided into thick needle and fine needle two kinds. So the cashmere sweater is divided into different types of needle:
Cashmere sweater according to the knitting needle type can be divided into the following needle type: 16, 14, 12, 9, 7, 5, 3, rod needle.
According to the organization structure, it can be divided into plane, twisted flower, drawing strip, jacquard, inlay, embroidery, printing and other.
According to the type of cashmere sweater knitting can be divided into full shape and cut shape two categories, but the majority of the full shape.
02
Film examination
After the sheeting produced on the flat machine is discharged from the machine, it must pass the sheet-by-piece inspection to meet the requirements before entering the garment process. The content of sheet inspection includes sheet specification (length of sheet, length of rib, number of clamp revolutions, closing times, etc.), sheet weight and appearance quality. Appearance quality includes missing needle, pattern needle, open edge monofilament, etc.
Inspection of the density and specification of the piece shall be carried out only after the piece is fully retracted. In the knitting process, the cloth sheet is lengthways stretched by threading board, hanging hammer, etc., coupled with the tension during knitting, so that the density and size of each part of the cloth sheet after dismounting from the machine are quite different from the actual requirements of the finished product. Therefore, the cloth sheet after dismounting from the machine can reflect the actual density and specifications only after standing for a certain time without retracting. However, this natural retraction (relaxation contraction) method takes a long time. In practice, various external pressure methods, such as coiling, coiling, and so on, are often used to make the garment quickly retract.
03
Sleeve
This link is to connect each qualified piece of clothing by machine stitching method to form a garment.
04
Hand seam
Some of the details of cashmere sweater which are inconvenient to be stitched by machine should be stitched by hand to connect the parts, such as the collar, cuffs, buttons and other auxiliary materials, and the effect of hand sewing will be better.
05
Seam inspection
After all the pieces and accessories are stitched, it is necessary to check them again in order to prevent the stitches from falling off or the stitches from being ugly because the joints are not stitched firmly.
Stitching requirements: The stitching of cashmere sweater should have the corresponding stretch and strength with the body, except for the pockets. In principle, the stitching line must be the same as the raw material, color and yarn density of cashmere sweater. Combed cashmere yarn should be used for the stitching line of coarse carded products and the surface line of machine sewing. The bottom line of flat seam, wrap seam, etc. should not have too much twist, and should be soft, elastic, smooth and strong enough.
06
Soak in water
Cashmere is a rough fiber: a good wool smoothing agent must be applied. So we usually raise the cashmere after washing the water. (This can not only increase the fullness of the fabric but also ensure that the finished product is resistant to washing water and shrinkage).
07
Reduction of volume
Shrinking belongs to the wet finishing process, is to use the shrinking characteristics of cashmere fiber, so that after the fiber is wet and hot, the scales expand and soft, under the action of friction, the performance of short velvet, feel plump, appearance improved. The auxiliary agent, temperature, bath ratio, time and other parameters used in shrinkage must be selected properly. In the shrinkage process of the shrinkage degree must be checked halfway, compare the suede standard sample to prevent excessive shrinkage.
08
Ironing
The purpose of ironing is to make the product finalize, maintain the style characteristics, the appearance is smooth and crisp, feel comfortable. When ironing, the sweater will be set on the template, in order to meet the specifications, to prevent "burning yellow, aurora" in operation.
09
Wool selection
Pick out some of the wool and different color fibers attached to the cashmere sweater, make the cashmere sweater look more tidy.
10
Lamp inspection
A key step of inspection, the cashmere sweater set on the special mold, through the light can more clearly see the cashmere sweater on the leakage needle, needle and other defects, in order to find the problem timely solution.
11
Repair and inspection
Repair all defects that can be fixed, such as missing needles, floral needles and broken monofilament.
12
Nail mark
After ironing, a cashmere sweater is basically formed. At this time, it is generally necessary to nail the trademark, wash the label, size table and so on to the specified position. If there is a hanging tag, it is necessary to hang a hanging tag, so that the complete cashmere sweater is really born.
13
Finished product inspection
The finished product inspection is a comprehensive inspection before the product leaves the factory. In cashmere sweater inspection, there are three special procedures, such as retest, finishing and classification, including appearance quality (dimensional tolerance, appearance defects), physical index (weight of single piece, needle ring density), etc.
In the finishing process, a small number of defects that do not belong to the scope of rollback, such as oil stains that can be removed, unseam, etc., can be repaired at any time.
14
Sample test
After some problems found after the finished product inspection are repaired, all the products should be basically free of problems. However, in order to ensure a high quality of the products, a part of the goods should be randomly selected for another inspection. Only if all the products are qualified in the sample inspection can be obtained.
15
Packing
Fold the qualified cashmere sweater according to the requirements, put it into a bag, and put it into a carton smoothly.
16
Warehousing
All cashmere sweaters are qualified products after the above 16 steps, then can be released as a commodity.
A cashmere sweater before being worn on the body to go through such a tedious step, we are not difficult to analyze why the cashmere sweater is known as the clothing industry "golden nail", "soft gold" reasons.